After years on the periphery, West African and Nigerian food is recognised worldwide as a global cuisine. Nigerian chefs are elevating the country’s food to Michelin-star level in cities such as London and New York. Daniel Neilson speaks to the chefs and critics celebrating the food of West Africa.
Akoko sits in Fitzrovia in central London among five-star hotels and by-appointment shopping experiences. Inside, the decor is earthy, relaxed, and undeniably luxurious. But then look at the tasting menu: jollof rice, suya, ayamase, fish yassa, pepper soup. This is Nigerian food, but the menu also hints at the level of the food. The jollof is made with A5 Wagyu beer, shito XO, and purple carrot. The fish yassa uses Cornish crab and blue mussels. The tatale comes with caviar. Nigerian food. Not Nigerian food.